Struggling to figure out what you need for an oil change? To properly tackle a DIY oil change, you’ll want to gather a few key items: fresh engine oil tailored to your car’s specifications, a new oil filter, a new drain plug gasket, a dependable oil drain pan, a sturdy wrench set and oil filter wrench, a funnel to avoid spills, and some good old rags or shop towels. For safety, always have a jack and jack stands, or sturdy ramps, before you even think about crawling under your car. Changing your car’s oil yourself isn’t just a great way to save some money. it’s also an awesome opportunity to get to know your vehicle better and build some real confidence in your DIY skills. Plus, you get to choose exactly what goes into your engine, ensuring it gets the best care possible.
Many folks find that a DIY oil change can cost as little as $25-$50 for materials, compared to $75-$150 or more at a shop, especially if you’re using synthetic oil. While the initial investment in tools might seem like a bit much, it quickly pays for itself over just a few oil changes. You’re looking at saving anywhere from $40 to $50 or even more each time, making it a truly worthwhile endeavor. So, let’s break down everything you’ll need to make your next oil change a breeze, from the absolute must-haves to the tools that just make life a little easier.
The Absolute Essentials: What You Can’t Do Without
When you’re ready to get your hands a little dirty in a good way!, these are the non-negotiable items you’ll need for a successful and safe oil change. Think of this as your core “what to buy for oil change” shopping list.
Engine Oil: The Lifeblood of Your Car
This is probably the most crucial part of your shopping list. Your engine oil is what keeps everything running smoothly, reducing friction and managing heat. There’s a bit of science behind choosing the right one, so let’s break it down.
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- Understanding Viscosity e.g., 5W-30, 0W-20: You’ve seen these numbers on the bottle, right? Like “5W-30” or “0W-20.” The “W” stands for “Winter,” and the number before it tells you how well the oil flows in cold temperatures – lower numbers mean it flows easier when it’s chilly, which is great for starting your car in cold weather. The second number like “30” or “20” indicates the oil’s viscosity at higher, operating temperatures. Picking the right viscosity is super important because if it’s too thick, it won’t circulate properly, and if it’s too thin, it won’t protect your engine effectively. Always remember, the right viscosity means your oil can keep your engine well-lubricated across a wide range of temperatures.
- Conventional vs. Synthetic vs. Synthetic Blend: This is where things get interesting.
- Conventional Motor Oil: This is your traditional oil, made from refined crude oil. It’s generally more affordable and works fine for many older, simpler engines and normal driving conditions. However, it breaks down faster and needs more frequent changes, usually every 5,000-7,500 miles.
- Synthetic Motor Oil: These are chemically engineered oils with more uniform molecules and fewer impurities, offering superior performance and protection. They handle extreme temperatures much better, resist thermal breakdown, and protect against sludge buildup. Many modern vehicles actually require synthetic oil, and it can significantly extend your oil change intervals, often up to 7,500-10,000 miles or even beyond. While they cost more upfront, the longer intervals can make them cost-neutral or even cheaper in the long run.
- Synthetic Blend Motor Oil: Think of this as a middle ground, a mix of conventional and synthetic oils. It offers some of the benefits of synthetic, like better protection against friction and wear, but at a more budget-friendly price point than full synthetic. These typically last around 6,000-8,000 miles.
- Checking Your Owner’s Manual Crucial!: I can’t stress this enough – your owner’s manual is your best friend here. It will tell you the exact type of oil, viscosity grade, and oil capacity your car needs. Using the wrong oil can void your warranty and even damage your engine. So, grab that manual or look it up online before you buy anything. Engine Oil is a big purchase, so get it right!
Oil Filter: Keeping Things Clean
Your oil filter works tirelessly to remove dirt, metal particles, and other contaminants from your engine oil. Don’t ever skip replacing it!
- Spin-on vs. Cartridge Filters: Most older cars use spin-on filters – they look like a metal can that screws directly onto the engine. Newer vehicles often use cartridge filters, which are literally just the filter element that sits inside a housing on the engine. Knowing which one your car uses will help you pick the right filter wrench.
- OEM vs. Aftermarket and why it matters: OEM Original Equipment Manufacturer filters are made by your car’s manufacturer and are designed to perfectly match your engine’s specifications. Aftermarket filters are made by other companies. While many aftermarket filters are excellent quality, it’s generally a good idea to stick with a reputable brand or an OEM filter to ensure the best fit and filtration. Your owner’s manual might even specify certain filter requirements. Find the right one for your vehicle: Oil Filter.
Oil Drain Plug Gasket/Crush Washer: A Small But Mighty Part
This tiny part is often overlooked, but it’s super important for preventing leaks. The drain plug gasket or crush washer creates a seal between the drain plug and the oil pan. What to Buy for Mimosas: Your Ultimate Guide to Brunch Perfection
- Why replace it every time? These washers are designed to “crush” or deform slightly when tightened, creating a tight seal. Once it’s been crushed, it won’t seal as effectively if reused, leading to potential oil leaks. A small leak can turn into a big problem, so replacing this inexpensive part every single time is a no-brainer. You can usually find a pack of these Drain Plug Gaskets for a few dollars.
Oil Drain Pan: Catching the Old Gunk
You definitely don’t want old, hot engine oil spilling all over your driveway. An oil drain pan is essential for catching the used oil and making disposal easy.
- Capacity Considerations: Make sure your drain pan has enough capacity to hold all the old oil from your engine, plus a little extra for good measure. Check your owner’s manual for your car’s oil capacity. Most cars hold between 4 and 7 quarts, so a 7-10 quart pan is usually a safe bet.
- Enclosed vs. Open designs: Some pans are open, basically just a wide tray. Others have an enclosed design with a cap and pour spout, which are fantastic for preventing spills during transport to a recycling center. Trust me, an enclosed one is worth it. Grab a good Oil Drain Pan.
Wrench Set/Socket Set: Getting Things Loose
You’ll need the right tools to loosen and tighten your oil drain plug.
- Specific sizes for drain plug and filter: Your drain plug will require a specific socket or wrench size, which you can usually find in your owner’s manual or by a quick online search for your specific make and model. A good Socket Set or Wrench Set with both metric and SAE sizes is a worthwhile investment for any DIYer.
- When picking one up, consider getting a combination wrench set that includes both box and socket ends for versatility.
Oil Filter Wrench: Don’t Skimp Here
Oil filters can be notoriously tight, and trying to remove one by hand often leads to frustration and scraped knuckles!. An oil filter wrench makes this job much easier.
- Cap, strap, or claw type:
- Cap wrenches fit over the end of the filter like a socket and are generally the best option if you can find one that perfectly matches your filter.
- Strap wrenches use a strap that tightens around the filter and are more universal.
- Claw wrenches grip the filter as you turn and are great for stubborn filters.
- Sometimes, having a couple of different types on hand is smart, especially if you work on various vehicles. Don’t cheap out on this tool. a good Oil Filter Wrench makes a world of difference.
Funnel: A Spillage Savior
Adding new oil to your engine without a funnel is like trying to fill a bottle with a garden hose – messy and wasteful.
- Different sizes, flexible options: A good funnel, especially one with a wider mouth and a long, flexible neck, will make pouring new oil a spill-free task. Some kits even come with adapters to fit various filler necks, which is super handy. Check out a Funnel that suits your needs.
Rags/Shop Towels: For the Inevitable Mess
Even with all the right tools, a little spill or drip is almost guaranteed. Keep plenty of old rags or Shop Towels nearby for quick cleanups. You’ll thank yourself later. What to Buy for Medical School: Your Ultimate Guide to Starting Strong
Gloves: Protecting Your Hands
Engine oil can be dirty and contain chemicals you don’t want on your skin. Nitrile gloves are fantastic because they’re durable and offer good protection while still allowing for dexterity. Keep a box of Work Gloves handy.
Jack Stands and Jack: Safety First!
This is absolutely, 100% non-negotiable. Never, ever work under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack. Hydraulic jacks can fail, and that’s a risk you should never take.
- Never work under a car supported only by a jack: You’ll need a Floor Jack to lift the car, but once it’s up, immediately secure it with robust Jack Stands. Place them on solid, level ground under designated support points on your vehicle. Some people prefer ramps because they offer a wider, more stable base, which can feel safer. If you have the space and your car can drive onto them safely, Car Ramps are a great alternative or even an addition to jack stands.
Nice-to-Have Tools & Supplies for a Smoother Job
These aren’t strictly necessary, but they make the oil change process a lot more pleasant, precise, and professional. Adding these to your “what to buy for oil change” list later on is a smart move.
Torque Wrench: Precision is Key
While you can tighten your drain plug and oil filter by hand, a Torque Wrench ensures you tighten them to the manufacturer’s exact specifications.
- Preventing overtightening: Overtightening can strip threads on your oil pan or break the oil filter housing, leading to costly repairs. Undertightening can cause leaks. A torque wrench takes the guesswork out of it.
Creeper: Saving Your Back
Crawling around on cold, hard concrete isn’t fun. A Creeper lets you slide easily under your car, making the job much more comfortable and saving your back and knees.
Oil Filter Pliers: An Alternative for Stubborn Filters
Sometimes, an oil filter wrench just won’t get the job done, especially if the filter is in an awkward spot or incredibly tight. Oil Filter Pliers can sometimes offer a better grip and more leverage.
Wheel Chocks: Extra Safety Layer
Even with your parking brake engaged, placing Wheel Chocks behind the wheels that remain on the ground provides an additional layer of safety, preventing the vehicle from rolling. It’s a small step that adds significant peace of mind.
Brake Cleaner/Degreaser: Cleaning Up Spills
For those inevitable drips or spills, a can of Brake Cleaner or degreaser works wonders to clean up oily residue from engine components or your garage floor. It evaporates quickly and leaves surfaces squeaky clean.
Understanding Your Car’s Needs: Before You Buy Anything
Before you even start thinking about “what to buy for oil change,” you really need to understand what your specific vehicle requires. Every car is different, and using the wrong products can cause serious issues. What to Buy for Long-Term Investment: Your Guide to Building Lasting Wealth
Check Your Owner’s Manual Again, It’s That Important!
I know I’ve said it before, but seriously, your owner’s manual is truly your bible for car maintenance. It’s not just suggested reading. it’s packed with crucial information specific to your car. You’ll find:
- Oil type and viscosity: This is non-negotiable. Using the wrong oil can damage your engine and even void your warranty.
- Oil capacity: Knowing how many quarts your engine takes prevents overfilling or underfilling, both of which are bad for your engine.
- Oil filter part number: This makes finding the correct replacement a breeze.
- Torque specifications: For the oil drain plug and filter, ensuring everything is tightened just right.
If you can’t find your physical manual, most manufacturers have digital versions available online.
How Often Should You Change Your Oil?
The old “3,000-mile rule” is largely a thing of the past for most modern cars and oils. Thanks to advancements in engine technology and oil formulations, most vehicles can go much longer between changes.
- Mileage vs. Time modern recommendations: Most modern vehicles using conventional oil can safely go 5,000-7,500 miles between changes. If you’re using synthetic oil, that interval often stretches to 7,500-10,000 miles or even up to 15,000 miles for some vehicles. However, time is also a factor. even if you don’t drive much, oil degrades over time, so most manufacturers recommend changing it at least once a year, regardless of mileage.
- Oil Life Monitoring Systems OLMS: Many newer cars come with these systems, which use algorithms and sensors to track factors like engine temperature, cold starts, driving hours, and engine revs to calculate the oil’s condition and tell you precisely when an oil change is needed. This is usually displayed as a percentage on your dashboard. These systems are designed to maximize oil life while still protecting your engine, so they’re a great guide to follow. For example, Honda’s Maintenance Minder system will illuminate a light and display codes when the oil life reaches 15%, indicating that service is due soon. At 5%, it’s due now, and at 0%, it’s overdue.
- Impact of driving style: Your driving habits play a big role too. If you do a lot of short trips under 5-10 miles, drive in extreme temperatures, tow heavy loads, or drive in dusty conditions, your oil might need changing more frequently, sometimes aligning with “severe service” schedules. These conditions put more stress on your engine and cause oil to degrade faster.
Dealership vs. DIY: The Cost Savings
One of the biggest motivations for learning what to buy for an oil change and doing it yourself is the cost savings.
- Breaking down the cost of parts vs. labor: When you pay a shop for an oil change, a significant portion of that cost is labor. For a conventional oil change, professional services typically charge $35-$75, while synthetic can range from $65-$125. When you DIY, you eliminate the labor cost and just pay for the oil and filter, which usually runs $25-$50.
- Average cost of oil changes national data: On average, you could be saving anywhere from $30 to $100 per oil change by doing it yourself. While the initial purchase of tools will add to your first DIY cost, they’re a one-time investment that pays off quickly over subsequent changes. Beyond the money, doing it yourself gives you control over the quality of parts and ensures the job is done to your satisfaction. Plus, as one Reddit user put it, you can “drink whisky” while doing it in your own garage, something a mechanic shop frowns upon!
Step-by-Step Checklist for Your DIY Oil Change Mental Prep
you’ve got your “what to buy for oil change” list nailed down and your supplies ready. Now, let’s quickly go over the mental checklist for the process itself. What to buy for jaw surgery
- Gathering all your supplies: Make sure everything from your new Engine Oil and Oil Filter to your Oil Drain Pan and wrenches is within reach. Nothing’s worse than being under the car and realizing you forgot something!
- Safety precautions: Park on a flat, level surface, engage the parking brake, and always use Jack Stands or ramps to safely support your vehicle. Wear your Work Gloves and eye protection. It’s also a good idea to let the engine cool down for a bit so you don’t burn yourself on hot oil or engine parts.
- Proper disposal of old oil: Used engine oil is toxic and needs to be disposed of responsibly. Never pour it down the drain or throw it in the trash. Many auto parts stores, service stations, and local recycling centers will accept used motor oil and even old oil filters free of charge. An Oil Recycling Container with a sealed lid is perfect for transport.
Related Maintenance: What Else Can You Check During an Oil Change?
While you’re already under or around your car for an oil change, it’s the perfect time to do a quick check on a few other things. It’s like getting a mini-inspection for free!
- Tire pressure: Properly inflated tires improve fuel efficiency and tire longevity. While you’re out of the car, quickly check all four tires.
- Fluid levels: Top off your windshield washer fluid, check your coolant reservoir, brake fluid, and power steering fluid if applicable. These are easy checks that can prevent bigger problems down the road.
- Air filter: A clogged engine Air Filter can reduce fuel efficiency and engine performance. It’s usually easy to inspect and replace if needed.
- Cabin filter: If your car has one, checking or replacing the Cabin Filter can significantly improve the air quality inside your vehicle.
- Belts and hoses: Give your belts a quick visual inspection for cracks or fraying, and squeeze your hoses to check for excessive hardness or softness, which can indicate they’re nearing the end of their life.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know what kind of oil to get for my car?
The absolute best way to know what kind of oil to get is to check your car’s owner’s manual. It will specify the exact oil type e.g., conventional, synthetic blend, full synthetic, the viscosity grade e.g., 5W-30, 0W-20, and the capacity how many quarts your engine needs. Using the wrong oil can damage your engine, so this step is super important. You can also often find this information by entering your car’s make, model, and year on an auto parts store website or an oil manufacturer’s product selector.
What’s the difference between conventional, synthetic blend, and full synthetic oil?
It boils down to how they’re made and their performance. Conventional oil comes from refined crude oil and is the most basic, typically suitable for older engines and normal driving, requiring more frequent changes. Synthetic blend oil is a mix of conventional and synthetic base oils, offering better protection and longer change intervals than conventional, but at a lower cost than full synthetic. Full synthetic oil is chemically engineered, providing the best protection against extreme temperatures, sludge, and wear, leading to longer oil change intervals and improved engine performance. Many modern vehicles require full synthetic oil. What to Buy for July 4th: Your Ultimate Guide to an Unforgettable Celebration!
Do I always need to change the oil filter when I change the oil?
Yes, absolutely! It’s highly recommended to always replace the oil filter every time you change your engine oil. The oil filter’s job is to trap contaminants and keep the oil clean. If you put new, clean oil into an engine with an old, dirty filter, you’re essentially contaminating the new oil immediately and hindering its ability to protect your engine effectively. A new filter is inexpensive and crucial for maintaining clean oil circulation.
How do I dispose of old engine oil?
Proper disposal of used engine oil is essential because it’s an environmental hazard. You should never pour it down a drain, on the ground, or throw it in regular trash. Instead, carefully drain the used oil into a dedicated, sealed container like an old oil jug or a specialized Oil Recycling Container. Most auto parts stores, quick lube shops, and many municipal recycling centers will accept used motor oil for free. Some even accept used oil filters. Just call ahead to confirm their policies.
Is doing my own oil change really cheaper than going to a shop?
Yes, generally speaking, doing your own oil change is significantly cheaper in the long run. While you’ll have an initial investment in tools like a Floor Jack and Jack Stands which could cost around $100-$200, the cost of the oil and filter for each change is typically $25-$50. This compares to $75-$150+ for a professional oil change, especially with synthetic oil. After just a few oil changes, your tool investment will pay for itself, and you’ll continue to save money on labor costs.
What percentage should I get my oil changed?
If your car has an Oil Life Monitoring System OLMS, you should plan to get your oil changed when the system indicates 15% oil life remaining. This is when most manufacturers, like Honda with their Maintenance Minder, trigger a warning light and codes, prompting you to schedule service soon. Waiting until 5% means it’s due now, and 0% means it’s past due. These systems are designed to calculate oil degradation based on driving conditions, so they’re generally reliable for determining the optimal time for an oil change. What to Buy for Your Japan Trip: The Ultimate Insider’s Guide
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